Some nuances of heating in the apartment

Today, many are faced with such a problem as poor heating at home. Last but not least, this is due to the fact that old cast-iron batteries are no good and that the heating system can only be improved by replacing them. And in order to replace the old heating system, it is necessary to follow the basic rules, which were formed in more than one year. First of all, this is the coordination of repair work with the housing office. Then you need to dismantle the old system, and after that install a new one, which also includes the appropriate wiring to the pipes. Another point that should be taken into account is the implementation of this repair in the summer. And now, in order and in more detail.

As for the coordination with the Housing Office, everything is simple here. This is done so that the complex is up to date with the planned work. Indeed, in which case it will be necessary to block the riser for the correct dismantling work. This, of course, may cost some money, but they will be justified.

Removing the old system

The next step is dismantling. It must be started with a pipe that acts as a riser. It is likely that over the years it was used, it pretty rusted and acquired unnecessary deposits. Therefore, its autopsy should be done carefully and carefully. The new installed pipe (especially its modern types) will lose this and improve the circulation capabilities of the water that will pass through them.

The new built-in heating system should immediately be “framed” inside the wall so that it does not disturb the presentable appearance of the room. If pipes are built in a residential building, then those sections that are in the interfloor blocks should also be replaced. Therefore, after this, the pipe should be drawn into this cavity, and cut off both from the top floor and from the bottom.

It is best to install plastic pipes, which are the most popular and have the best features. To install them, it is necessary to cut the thread on the pipe that performs the function of the riser. Then it must be lubricated and sealed with tape, which is screwed onto the sleeve. The coupling will connect both steel and plastic pipes.

Mounting

Next is the installation of a heating radiator. First you need to decide on his choice. At the moment, the most popular is bimetal. He uses steel in his design, and that, in turn, is able to withstand a fairly high pressure and resist corrosion damage. The price for this type of radiator is higher than for the same cast-iron or metal, but it justifies itself in full, since with the help of a bimetallic radiator you can forget about the repair and replacement of its structural parts for a long period of time.

Mounting the radiator involves brackets, and usually install it under the window, where old cast-iron batteries were mainly located. This is done so that the cold air that passes the window, could not get into the room. It should also be taken into account that the distance from the floor at which the radiator should be installed should not be more than 12 centimeters. To the windowsill, such a distance should not go beyond the boundaries of 10 centimeters, and the distance between the wall and the radiator should be at a mark of 5 centimeters.

Wiring

After installation, the radiator begins the wiring process. To do this, connect the heating pipes to the radiator device itself. The type of built-in pipes must also be carefully considered. You can use steel, or you can be content with the same plastic ones, which, although not as strong as steel, have a number of other advantages that are not the last of its kind - lightness, cheaper cost, and more.

There are four options that are equally successful. The first is a one-way connection, the second is a cross connection, the third is a lower connection, the fourth is a one-pipe connection.

There is where to disperse, but nevertheless, the one-sided method is more relevant and effective. It should also be remembered that both shutoff and control valves should be installed both at the inlet and at the outlet of the radiator, which controls and controls the heat and is able to turn off the battery for possible technical repairs or regular flushing. If such a system is installed in a multi-storey building, then a jumper is attached to this fixture, which is installed between the supply pipe and the one that performs the opposite action.

Pipes, like the radiator itself, are often hidden in the walls, but this is not the best option. Firstly, it is a complex process, and therefore expensive. And secondly, meaningless. After all, the main reason for such actions is to save the area of the room.